Vitamin C is an antioxidant and occurs naturally in citrus fruits, strawberries, paw paw and broccoli. Also, the majority of the animal kingdom is able to produce their own; humans, however, don’t have the enzyme required to synthesise Vitamin C into a useable mineral and therefore must obtain it through diet and application. Vitamin C comes in various forms of different stability.
It is used in dermatology for its aid in collagen production, skin brightening, reducing wrinkles, and more importantly healing and preventing the disastrous effects of photoaging. Photoaging occurs most aggressively from exposure to UV light through activities such as sun baking or using sun-beds. UVA damages the dermis and destroys collagen and elastin, which inhibits healing; UVB impacts the epidermis and leads to sunburn, skin cancer, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause oxidative stress to the skin cells. Vitamin C is effective against UVA and UVB damage and does not absorb UV light, but rather is a protectant by neutralising free radicals. However, exposure to UV light diminishes Vitamin C levels in the skin. While sunscreen is crucial in minimising photoaging, most only block 55% of free radicals, which is why Vitamin C should be integrated into your daily skincare routine.
Due to its compound makeup, Vitamin C is highly unstable and can only be used on your skin in active forms that don’t oxidise quickly. A lot of skincare products list Vitamin C as l-ascorbic acid, which is the most common chemically active derivative, but it is very unstable. It oxidises once it touches your skin and before it can be effective, which may damage your skin. We therefore highly recommend avoiding products that use l-ascorbic acid.
What’s the RIGHT Vitamin C product to use then? Many products that promote using Vitamin C contain cheaper forms and in very small amounts (so low, that they have no benefits at all). At HydroSkin, we’ve researched the best derivatives and chose the most stable: Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP). It is a relatively new derivative of Vitamin C that is highly stable, more effective than l-ascorbic acid, and safe to use on your skin. It is non-toxic and doesn’t irritate.
AAP produces all the benefits Vitamin C provides for your skin: anti-aging, protection from UV damage, collagen production, reducing wrinkles, brightening and evening skin tones, and healing of the skin. It is efficient in penetrating the skin, while the concentration is high enough to produce effective results. We use this form in our C Moisturiser at an adequate amount, which should be applied twice in a day. We also recommend finishing with a good-quality sunscreen when applying in the morning.